Koufonisia — or Koufonisi, or Koufo, depending on who you ask — is a tiny island in the Micro-Cyclades, Greece. It takes about twenty minutes to walk across. There are no cars. The beaches are extraordinary. The tavernas stay open until 3am. Tom has been going back, year after year, since 2012.
Here are all the Koufonisia posts, in a good reading order:
Start here — the first visit
Γεια σου από την Koufonisia — Hi from Koufi (2012)
The first dispatch from the island. Five days in, and already hooked.
Gitonia tis Irinis (2012)
Life in a small Cycladic house, church bells, and the rhythm of island time.
Pizza? Δεν Έχουν (2012)
A moonlit night, a full moon, and dinner that didn’t happen until 10pm. As it should be.
180 Steps (2012)
Leaving Koufonisia for Naxos — and already planning the return.
The return visits
Koufonisia Here I Come (2013)
Back again, arriving in the small hours. Some things never change.
Hey Big Spender (2013)
Saying goodbye to Koufonisia after two glorious weeks. Until next year.
The birthday years
The Birthday Party (2019)
Mad Petros and the Mad Brothers descend on Koufonisia for his brother’s 60th. Tom has history with this restaurant.
The Last Boat out of Piraeus (2019)
A cancelled flight accidentally puts Tom and YM on the last ferry before a storm locks down the Aegean.
The Fish Trap (2019)
A horse, a towel, Renata, ouzo, and Giorgos driving home at 3am with his eyes closed. A quiet night in.
The most recent
Sweet Dreams (and nightmares) are made of this (2025)
Back again. Three weeks in Greece, barely a word written. This is what happened.